Puppies Available Now

and

Puppies Purchasing Information

 
 

Milly and Habibi

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Holly and Harley

Holly is a beautiful golden cocker spaniel.  Whilst she is not directly a part of our East Timor project, she has just delivered 5 marvelous purebred puppies.  We are hoping that a family may purchase one of these female pups as a project participant.  We would hope these pups will eventually be bred with a poodle to produce beautiful spoodles for our project.  These pups were born 29/11/11.  Serious enquiries please email Jeannet on j.kessels@live.com.au.

Future litters for 2012

 

We currently don't have any more puppies available for sale until later this year.  Our lovely Labrador Elsa may be bred mid year, so stay posted for more information on her litter.  Many of our girls are having a well earned rest or are still too young to breed. If you are interested in a puppy please keep an eye on our website for the most up to date information of upcoming litters.

 

Bali and Habibi

 

 

All of Bali and Habibi's beautiful puppies are now sold.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

Elsa and Benji

 

Elsa failed to fall pregnant after her October mating and we hope to mate her again in April 2012. 

 

        

 

 

 

 

 

Purchasing a Puppy

Price:

Our puppies are individually priced from $1350 plus GST.  An additional $330 is required to cover the costs of desexing, 1st vaccination, microchipping and flea/worming treatment.  Our glorious red groodle pups usually sell at a premium price, decided on a case by case basis.

Please note that a $300 deposit is required to reserve a puppy. 

To place a deposit please email j.kessels@live.com.au 

Transport:

It is possible to transport pups interstate or internationally using Dogtainers, to be organised by the purchaser.  Dogtainers provide air transport for puppies.  They are collected from our clinic and we are most happy with their services.

Another useful transport company is Dogmovers, which will deliver puppies by road.

Articles

For information on Puppy Care, Pet Insurance, Springfield District Vets, Springfield Pet and Aquarium or Joining the Project, please visit our website  www.springfielddistrictvets.com.au.

How to Purchase a Puppy

Deposits for puppies are taken once pregnancy is planned. The deposits are non-refundable unless there is unsuitability of sex or type or unavailability of puppies. Otherwise the deposit remains a donation      to the East Timor Children's Fund. The deposit required is $300. All efforts are made to match puppies' temperament and type with family or individual needs.

Once puppies are born, photos of the litter are posted on this website.

At 6 weeks of age, individual photos of puppies are provided and pups are chosen in order of deposits received.

Puppies are desexed, vaccinated (first vaccination), microchipped and rewormed at 6 weeks.

Puppies are able to go to their new homes at 8 weeks. The balance is paid by direct deposit prior to delivery of puppies. Puppies usually sell for $1100 excluding GST plus veterinary costs of $280. Some exceptional puppies and all red puppies sell for a premium price, decided on a case by case basis.  Please remember that all proceeds (after costs) from these puppies are donated to the East Timor Children's Fund!

It is preferred that Groodle puppies are collected from Springfield District Vets. There is a fully stocked pet store (see our website www.springfieldpetandaquarium.com.au  ) at the clinic for purchase of quality foods and accessories for your puppies' needs. Staff will assist you with advice and in selection of correct products for your new puppy in order to make the best possible start. Products are able to be transported with puppies if so desired.

For those puppies travelling interstate or internationally, Dogtainers is recommended for air transport. Another option is Dogmovers, caring transport by road for all pets and small domestic animals. www.dogmovers.com.au

Whilst Groodles Australia makes every effort to ensure the health and well being of puppies, it is not possible to provide a guarantee for pups. Therefore we strongly advise the early uptake of Pet Insurance. Please view articles on Puppy Care and Pet Insurance.

For information on joining our breeding program, please view article on www.springfielddistrictvets.com.au

 

 

 

Care of Puppies

Vaccinations:

To provide your puppy with the best protection against diseases such as Distemper, hepatitis, Parvo Virus and Kennel Cough, your puppy should have three vaccinations, one month apart, beginning at six weeks of age. After this initial course of vaccinations, a booster vaccination is required once a year.

Worming:

Puppies should be wormed every two weeks up until the age of twelve weeks, then monthly up until six months of age, with an all-wormer such as Drontal Puppy Syrup or Milbemax Puppy Tablets, which can be purchased from your vet. These ‘allwormer’ preparations kill any worms that may be present in the intestines, including roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and hydatid tapeworm. After six months of age, puppies can then be wormed every three months, depending on the product you choose to use for worming.

Heartworm:

Many ‘allwormer’ tablets do not cover heartworm prevention. Heartworm is a worm that is spread by mosquitos and grows in the heart of the dog, leading eventually to heart failure. Some form of heartworm prevention should be started by three months of age. Heartworm prevention is available in monthly tablets or chewables, a monthly spot-on preparation applied to the back of the neck (which is often combined with worm or flea treatment) or a yearly injection from your vet.

Fleas:

Flea treatment should be carried out monthly, throughout the year. Fleas will begin to lay eggs which contaminate your dog’s environment within 24 hours of being on the dog, so by the time you notice fleas on your pet, you may already have a build-up of flea eggs in the environment! (Dog Bedding, Carpet, garden etc). Environmental flea problems are very difficult to get rid of, so prevention is much better than cure.

Microchipping:

The best way to ensure that your pet will make it home is with a microchip. Pet tags on collars are a good start, but often when animals escape under fences etc they lose their collars. Microchipping is often done at the time of desexing while your pet is under anaesthetic, however it can be done at any time, for example during one of your vaccination appointments. The chip is implanted using a large needle, and is about the size of a grain of rice. 

Desexing:

All puppies sold through Groodles Australia are desex. Desexing for males involves surgical removal of the testes, whereas in the females, the ovaries and uterus are removed. There are various benefits involved with having your animal desexed-
●  Cheaper registration with your local council
●  Decreased risk of mammary cancer in females if they are desexed
●  Decreased risk of ‘pyometra’ or uterine infections in females
●  Decreased risk of prostatic problems and testicular cancer in male dogs

Diet:

Feeding a complete, balanced diet such as Eukanuba or Iams is the simplest way to ensure that your puppy gets all the protein, energy and nutrients required for growth and development. Often breeders will recommend a variety of supplements, including puppy milk, however these are generally not required once the transition to a good quality balanced diet has occurred. Always remember to change your puppy’s diet slowly, over a 4-5 day period, to enable them to get used to new food.

Puppy Preschool:

We strongly recommend puppy preschool attendance. Both you and your puppy will fint it enjoyable. Puppy preschool will help top ensure a socially adjusted adult dog. Springfield District Veterinary Clinic runs an excellent puppy preschool class if you are local.

Pet Insurance:

Springfield District Vets strongly recommends that owners purchase insurance for their pets. There are always unforeseen costs when owning a pet, and insurance will go most of the way towards covering these costs. Having pet insurance gives you the peace of mind that your dog will be covered in the event of illness and injury.
 
Veterinary treatment available today is very advanced. Not only does pet insurance help to cover the cost of treating your dog or cat but it enables you to make choices of the type of treatment to go for. You can choose to have your dog treated by a specialist in a particular field, or to opt for procedures such as ultrasound scans that you might otherwise be unable to afford.
 
There are several different companies which offer pet insurance. Some specialise only in pet insurance, whereas others deal in home and car insurance, and will add pet insurance on to your policy. Not all companies offer the same level of cover however. It is important that you shop around and find a company whose premiums not only match your budget, but also that the level of cover provided is what you think you’ll need. Check for any exclusions, such as costs incurred from breeding or complimentary therapies. Some companies will insure a condition for life, whereas other companies will only cover a particular condition for twelve months. Companies also vary on the amount of money that they will pay for each claim. With some policies you can decide on a level of cover and your premiums will reflect this. 
 

HUMANE CRATE TRAINING

Benefits of Crate Training:

There are times dog owners need to confine their dog, so training the dog to accept being crated is beneficial.

  • A crate provides the dog with the opportunity to be part of the group without interacting with the people present and it is often a better alternative to putting the dog outside.
  • Any dog which needs to be admitted to a veterinary clinic will be kept in a small pen – dogs which are crate trained adapt much better to this.
  • Crates enable owners to control their dogs behaviour when they cannot watch it – a crated dog cannot rip up furniture, steal the roast off the bench, or trip up the children.
  • Crates, when used correctly, are a great adjunct to toilet training – a pup confined in a crate and taken out regularly will make fewer “mistakes” than one given free run of the house.
  • A crate becomes a security blanket to a dog – when he is taken somewhere new, he will settle much quicker in his crate with a few favourite toys and snacks.
  • During travelling with the dog, he will be much less stressed by the journey if he can make it in his familiar crate.

Choosing a Crate and Location:

  • A metal collapsible crate with a tray floor or plastic travelling crate works well, providing it is large enough for the dog to stand up and turn around. Provide some soft and comfortable bedding. Some dogs prefer a den with solid walls as this can provide added security. Try covering the crate with a sheet. Other dogs like to see what’s going on around them.
  • As dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is a room that the family frequents, such as a kitchen, living room or bedroom, rather than an isolated laundry or garage. If the dog has a favourite corner or room in which to nap, then this may be the best location for the crate.
  • If the owner wishes the dog to sleep in a particular location at night, this can easily be introduced later - beginning in the bedroom does not mean the dog will always have to sleep there.
  • The crate should never be used for punishment, as it needs to remain a positive retreat.
  • A radio or television may help calm the dog, and mask any environmental noises that could trigger anxiety or barking.

Crate Training:

The most important principles for effective crate training include suitable location of the crate and gradually introducing the dog to confinement in a positive manner.

  1. Set up the crate and leave the door open for several days so the dog becomes accustomed to its presence. Then begin encouraging the dog to enter the crate by placing food treats, or toys in the crate. Ensure the door is left open at all times, so the dog can come and go as it pleases. When motivating the dog to enter the crate use a voice request and hand signal (eg. “in your crate” with a pointing hand). Associations with the crate can be made fun and relaxing by playing games associated with the crate. For example, send the dog into the crate, and then call it out and reward with food treats. Alternatively, play fetch, throwing a toy into the crate.
  1. Once the dog is freely entering the crate, leave a bone, or Kong toy stuffed with food in the crate, in order to encourage the dog to stay in the crate for longer periods of time. This helps in developing positive associations with the crate. It is often helpful to start crate training after a period of play, exercise or elimination, when the dog will tend to be more settled.
  1. Once the dog is happy to remain in the crate for short periods of time, start closing the door whilst the dog is busy chewing on his bone or toy. Open the door before the dog has finished.
  1. The next step is to leave the door closed for progressively longer periods of time, even after the dog has finished with its toy or bone.
  1. Finally, the dog should be left in the crate during bedtimes, and during departures (simply leaving the room can be departure). Try short departures first, and gradually make them longer. It is very important that the dog does not become distressed at any stage.
  1. Only release the dog from the crate when it is quiet.
  1. At any time when the crate is not in active use, leave the door open so as the dog can use it as it pleases.
  1. Some dogs may adapt more quickly to crate training if they sleep in the crate at night.

Do not..

  • Send the dog to the crate as punishment. It must be a happy place for him.
  • Leave a young or inexperienced dog in a crate alone. It is important in the early stages that the owner is nearby to take him out before he becomes anxious and when he needs to relieve himself.
  • Use the crate as a substitute for attention, exercise or environmental enrichment.